What is alpha-Arbutin?

alpha-Arbutin is a hydroquinone derivative. It is obtained mainly by enzymatic synthesis of hydroquinone. Hydroquinone is a recognised whitening ingredient, but hydroquinone is mutagenic. In African countries, hydroquinone causes mutations and increases the occurrence of ochronosis. As a result, the EU and FDA have banned the use of hydroquinone in all over-the-counter preparations. To obtain the whitening effect of hydroquinone, its less cytotoxic derivatives have been used.

Structurally, alpha-arbutin is 4-hydroxyphenyl a-D-glucopyranoside. Another derivative is beta-arbutin, which is 4-hydroxyphenyl b-D-glucopyranoside. The tyrosinase inhibitory activities of alpha-arbutin and its optical isomer, 4-hydroxyphenyl b-D-glucopyranoside, were compared, and the results showed that the inhibitory activity of alpha-arbutin was stronger than that of beta-arbutin. In addition to its cosmetic use, alpha arbutin has therapeutic properties such as treatment of urinary tract infections, anti-tumour, anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant.

Arbutin occurs naturally in bearberry extracts but can also be obtained from hydroquinone by glucosylation. α-Arbutin occurs as a white to off-white powder. It is hydrophilic and has a water solubility of 151 g/litre at 20 ± 5 ?C. According to the recommendations of the SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety), the maximum content of α-arbutin is 2 per cent in face creams and 0.5 per cent in body lotions.

Benefits of alpha-Arbutin on the skin

alpha-Arbutin is a highly effective skin lightener in cosmetics. It reduces hyperpigmentation by competitively inhibiting human tyrosinase. It reduces hyperpigmentation and blotchiness due to acne or sun damage and is also effective in reversing problems such as freckles and age spots.

And it also has a lightening effect on melasma alpha-Arbutin, which occurs during pregnancy. In addition, alpha-Arbutin helps to brighten skin and enhance skin tone, and is a common ingredient in skin whitening products.

Side Effects

alpha-Arbutin is a relatively safe whitening ingredient. However, for sensitive skin, excessive use of products containing alpha-Arbutin may cause a burning sensation on the face or skin. In addition, humans who are allergic to alpha-arbutin may experience problems such as dermatitis or contact dermatitis after use, with symptoms such as redness, itching, dryness, blisters or rashes. Secondly if you have your own skin problems (acne or rosacea) it is recommended to consult a doctor before use.

References:

[1] HAJI MUHAMMAD SHOAIB KHAN. Encapsulation of alpha arbutin, a depigmenting agent, in nanosized ethosomes: Invitro and invivo human studies.[J]. Heliyon, 2023. DOI:10.1016/j.heliyon.2023.e19326.